(FYI – if you are interested in purchasing a pin nailer, this Porter* is good and budget friendly option). Just allow it to dry overnight before removing the tape. So, if you have a pin nailer, go ahead and add a few to each end. I only do it so that I can safely continue working before it has had a chance to completely dry. Your shelves will be just as strong with only the glue. I like to add some pin nails to all of my projects that are just glue ups, but it is totally optional. And, if your cuts are just a tiny bit off, most of the time you can make adjustments to compensate. This way, you get all the pieces aligned prior to them setting up or being permanently attached. I have seen this happen quite often with beginners, and it is very frustrating when your projects don’t turn out the way you planned. If you try the traditional method of nailing two sections together, then adding the next section and so on, you may end up with the last piece not fitting exactly the way you want. This method (with the tape) makes assembling pieces like this much easier. If there is any glue squeezing out of the joints, go ahead and wipe it off before it dries. Roll the excess tape over the ends to hold everything in place. Then, put it in place so that the two remaining ends meet properly. Then, start with last section that is still laying on the table, and bring it up to connect with the top piece.Īt this point, you will need to add a bead of glue to the end of the last section. Continue rolling until you get the first section to the top. Next, begin to roll each section up so that the butted bevels are joined. Don’t over do it or you will have to clean up the excess. Now, apply a bead of glue to each bevel (arrows). Second image shows masking tape placed along sections).Īfter you have the sections taped in place, carefully flip the entire line over to expose the beveled cuts. Leave just a little bit of tape hanging from one end. Use two strips of masking tape to hold the sections in place. The long side should face up so that you can not see the beveled angle. Then, place each section face down in a straight line with the ends butted against each other. Sand off any burrs and splinters and and smooth out the rough places on each piece. If using a table miter saw, it is best to set up a stop block to get each piece exactly the same length. The bevels should be facing away from each other on each end. To make the cuts on your miter saw, set the bevel to 30 degrees, and cut 6 sections at 7″ each, with bevels on both ends. How To Build and Hang Honeycomb Shelves – Instructions… See it in action or, for more details, continue reading below! And if you like the video, please be sure to subscribe to my Youtube channel. masking tape (trick to making assembly easier).To make each section you will need the following: The materials needed for this project are minimal. It is great practice for assembling pieces with bevels and the size is perfect for learning this skill (neither too large nor too small for the hands). In fact, this is one of the first instructional projects that I have beginners tackle. I know that the angles may be intimidating to some of you, but they really are not that hard. Honeycomb (or hexagon) shelves are one of the easiest woodworking projects that you will find. That means that I make a small commission from sales that result through these links, at no additional cost to you. (This post may contain affiliate links (*). So, I thought I would show you how to build and hang honeycomb shelves using my construction tricks. There are six sections in each shelf, so getting them to fit together correctly was causing some people to end up with the last piece slightly out of sync. One thing that I have noticed with other DIYers’ methods was that the build was a bit awkward. As part of my office makeover, I thought that a collage of honeycomb shelves would look nice and add a little extra wall storage. It has taken me a while, but I finally got around to building some honeycomb shelves.
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